Paris.

I had so much fun writing my Chicago trip report that I decided to write one for Paris too. My last visit was in November 2012 so it’s been a while, but hopefully my recommendations will withstand the test of time. I should note here that “my recommendations” are really my friend Chiawen’s; he was the reason I visited Paris in the first place, as he had moved to Paris 3 years prior (he has since moved to London). 

I stayed in an Airbnb apartment in the 15th arrondissement (italicized since it sounds much more snobby in French). The location was super convenient: it was less than 10 minutes walk to a couple metro stations, and there were several bakeries right outside the apartment building. The Marais (or Haut-Marais) in the 3rd is a more happenin’ place to stay if you’re looking for nightlife, but for me, the 15th was perfect. 

Getting around on the metro was easy; there were plenty of trains, and it takes you everywhere you want to go. I never had to bother with the bus, even though I’m told it’s also convenient. I also didn’t bother with a day or weekend metro pass although maybe I should have…I stuck with the carnet – a pack of 10 metro tickets. Each metro trip costs 1 ticket regardless of the number of stops (you swipe the ticket at the point of entry). It’s a little difficult to keep track of the used metro tickets, so I always folded mine when I used it (sometimes the metro police check whether you have a stamped metro ticket at the exit, but in my experience this was pretty rare). 

The metro stops are fairly close together, so 1-2 metro stops are walkable. Additionally, I found the Paris metro to be much more reliable than the London tube. Connections on the London tube also tend to require more walking on average than on the metro.  

I loved walking around and taking pictures in Paris. It’s beautiful everywhere you turn. Below are some of my favorite places to take pictures:

• Eiffel Tower from Trocadero. If you come here, you should also go to Carette (tea salon) either before or after to enjoy some tea and macarons. (Metro: Trocadero)
• Glass pyramids in front of the Louvre. Also the inverse pyramids underground. There are some shops underground so it’s free to just go and look around. (Metro: Louvre Rivoli or Palais Royal Musee du Louvre)
• The Opéra. It’s simply a stunning building, inside and out. The tour was a bit dry but I still loved it. (Metro: Opéra)
• Jardin du Luxembourg. On a sunny day this park is beautiful. I recommend buying some Pierre Hermé macarons and enjoying them here. (Metro: Odeon)
• Anywhere along the Seine River where you can see the Eiffel Tower. 
• Musée d’Orsay. It was converted from a train station, and the space is gorgeous. My favorite feature has to be the large clocks on the outside of the building, but it is even more picturesque on the inside. The restaurant (I want to say it’s on the second floor) is also beautiful, and it’s well worth the visit for both the food and the ambiance. Note that there are other cafés in the museum, but only one restaurant. You don’t need to buy a ticket to eat at the restaurant (but you still need to go through the security line), and I somehow managed to walk into the museum without paying for a ticket afterwards (purely an accident). Overall I wasn’t too impressed with the museum (I’m not a fan of museums in general), and maybe I would have preferred Musée de l’Orangerie instead to see Monet’s water lilies. (Metro: Musée d’Orsay)
• Musée Rodin. This has to be the best museum deal in Paris: admission to the outdoor sculpture garden costs something like 1 or 2 euro. You can pay more to visit the actual museum, but it was enough for me to see the actual famous sculptures (Thinker, Gates of Hell). (Metro: Concorde)
• Place des Voges. Close to the Marais, you can also enjoy Carette macrons at the tea salon adjacent to this square. There are many boutiques nearby if you want to shop. (Metro: Bastille, Chemin Vert, Saint Paul)
• Notre Dame. Truth be told the only reason I thought of Notre Dame was because Berthillon (amazing Parisian ice cream) is located nearby on Ile Saint-Louis (it’s an adjacent island). But Notre Dame is worth a visit since it’s such an iconic structure (no tank tops inside, as with any European cathedral). I also recommend a rooftop view of Notre Dame from the Arab World Institute a short walk away (it’s free, and the building itself is noteworthy). (Metro: too many to list, look it up yourself)
• Basilica of Sacre-Coeur. It’s a little bit out of the way, but it’s a beautiful building located at the summit of Montmartre (the highest point in the city). Unfortunately I wasn’t here on a clear day, but the building itself was still nice to see (and the interior rivals Notre Dame in its grandness). (Metro: Blanche, Anvers)

Now is probably a good time to mention that French hours are much more limited than American hours…always look up the hours of operation prior to visiting wherever it is you want to go. For instance, shopping malls are closed on Sundays (this is true for Europe in general). And if you are visiting during the summer, be warned that many eateries and restaurants are closed starting in late July and through August. Touristy places or chains like Ladurée and Pierre Hermé will probably be open, but Berthillon (closed Mondays and Tuesdays) and Jacques Genin (closed Mondays) most likely will be closed for the entire month…make sure to find out before visiting. 

On the plus side, tax and tip are included in the prices. If the service was exceptional you can tip 1 or 2 euro, otherwise no tip is perfectly acceptable.

Moving on, my favorite things and places to eat in Paris are as follows:

• Duck confit (confit de canard). Needless to say this comes with skin-on and is fatty and delicious (not for white-meat lovers). Robert et Louise (also has amazing steaks) and Au petit fer à cheval (also has delicious apple tartin dessert) were both awesome and pretty close to each other (3rd / 4th district). 
• Chocolate croissants (pain au chocolat). Related: almond croissant (croissant aux amandes). They cost 1-2 euro at any bakery, and are a staple French breakfast item. Buttery, flaky, and chocolate-y, these are best early in the morning when they’re still warm, but I’d still eat them if they were a day old. I recommend getting at least 2 on your last day in Paris. 
• Anything with salted caramel (caramel au beurre salé). Ice cream, macaron, you name it.  
• I already mentioned Berthillon ice cream. There are other cafés that also serve Berthillon ice cream in case they are not open…just look for a Berthillon sign on the outside of the café.
• Macarons. You can find these Parisian delicacies in almost every bakery, but there are a few standouts that you should definitely try: Ladurée (perhaps the most famous brand, located inside CDG Terminal 2 so it would be cheapest there with a boarding pass, although it’s now also in NYC), Pierre Hermé (I love the green tea – seasonal – as well as the salted caramel), and Carette (all standard flavors here, but it’s really, really good). Some McDonald’s also have macarons if you’re looking for a cheap but decent baseline.
• Jacques Genin caramels. I spent more than $300 on caramels to bring back to the States to share with family and friends, it was that good. My favorites are the mango-passion and plain caramel. The fruit jellies are also great, but the caramels are out-of-this-world amazing. (Metro: Republique)
•  Le Beurre Noisette is located deep in the 15th district, but I loved the food here. It would easily be a Michelin-starred restaurant in the Bay Area, but apparently not in Paris – which is great because that means the prices are reasonable (32 euros for a 3-course dinner, in 2011). Everything on the menu was fantastic, but I especially remember the scallops, madeleines (best I have ever had), and baba au rhum dessert. (Metro: Balard)
• The galettes (essentially savory buckwheat crepes) at Breizh Café were perfect for brunch, but the place does get crazy crowded. I’m a sucker for brunch / breakfast food, so my mouth is watering just thinking about the crepes here. (Metro: Chemin Vert, Filles du Calvaire)
• Aki Japanese Restaurant, because as delicious as French food is, it’s too rich for my blood to eat everyday. Walking distance from Opéra, I had the best chicken teriyaki of my life at this restaurant. I know that is a weird thing to say since chicken teriyaki is like the plainest thing you can get at a Japanese restaurant, but it totally hit the spot and I would highly recommend it. The okonomiyaki (Japanese pizza) is also good if you haven’t had that before. (Metro: Pyramides)
• Non Solo Cucina, a Sicilian restaurant in the 16th. I still remember how delicious the pasta was here (disclaimer: I haven’t visited Italy yet, but it’s on my short list). (Metro: Ranelagh)

There were a few fancier (read: more expensive) places I went to that I would recommend as well, although they may not be for everyone. Make sure to call ahead for reservations.

• Le Chateaubriand (prix fixe dinner: 60 euros). Considering that it’s been ranked in the top 50 of the world’s best restaurants for several years now, the price is a steal. Some of the dishes were too creative for my taste, but overall I still enjoyed the meal. 
• Spring (prix fixe dinner: 84 euros). I was lucky enough to have had the once-a-year lobster sandwiches (25 euros) here in addition to dinner. The lobster sandwich was amazing, and dinner was great as well. (Note: the chef is from Chicago, but educated in Paris.)
• Chez L’ami Jean. The menu here was like a novel. Warning: don’t bother with the full prix fixe menu, the “mini” prix fixe is already a lot of food. The lobster soup and red chili ice cream here were my favorites.

If money is no object, I would also consider eating at Jules Verne in the Eiffel Tower – it’s a Michelin-rated restaurant with unbelievable views and prices. (I have never eaten here, but would like to someday.) Lunch is around 100 euros and dinner is double that. Needless to say, reservations are required (remember to request a window seat if it’s available). 

So, there you have it. I wish I had written this earlier, but am glad I finally got around to it. I hope it’s evident from this post that I love Paris. Not only that, but I love the people I encountered. Contrary to popular belief, I found Parisians to be friendly and endearing, and they only made me want to experience more of their city.  

Next: London and Bangkok trip reports.